The Rolex Explorer II, a rugged and reliable tool watch renowned for its functionality and enduring design, has captivated watch enthusiasts for decades. One frequently asked question revolves around the material of its hour markers: are they made of gold? The answer, as with many aspects of Rolex craftsmanship, is nuanced and depends on the specific reference and year of production. This article will delve into the history of the Explorer II, examining various models and their dial configurations to definitively answer this question and explore the broader context of the watch's design and evolution.
Rolex Explorer II Models: A Chronological Journey
Before exploring the material composition of the hour markers, it’s crucial to understand the different generations of the Rolex Explorer II. Each iteration has its own unique characteristics, influencing the appearance and construction of the dial, including the hour markers. Let's briefly trace the evolution of this iconic model:
* Rolex Explorer II 1655 (1971-1984): This is the original and arguably the most iconic Explorer II. Characterized by its distinctive orange hand (often referred to as the "GMT hand"), the 1655 featured a matte dial with luminous hour markers. While not explicitly stated as gold in official documentation, many collectors and experts believe the hour markers on the 1655 are indeed gold, likely 18k yellow gold, applied over a luminous base. The patina and age of these markers can vary significantly, making definitive identification challenging. The variation in lume aging also contributes to the mystique and desirability of vintage 1655 models.
* Rolex Explorer II 16550 (1984-1989): The 16550 marked a transition in the Explorer II's design. While retaining the overall functionality and rugged aesthetic, the orange hand was replaced with a white GMT hand. The dial also underwent some changes, and the hour markers, like its predecessor, are generally considered to be gold-filled, applied markers. The lume material also changed, resulting in a slightly different appearance compared to the 1655.
* Rolex Explorer II 16570 (1989-2011): The 16570 is perhaps the most widely recognized Explorer II. This generation saw the introduction of a sapphire crystal, improving scratch resistance. The dial design remained relatively consistent with the 16550, with applied hour markers. Again, while not explicitly confirmed as gold by Rolex, evidence suggests these markers are likely gold-filled or potentially a gold-plated application over a base metal. The variation in color and aging of the lume across different 16570s further complicates a definitive answer without close examination.
* Rolex Explorer II 216570 (2011-2021): This model featured a larger 42mm case and a more contemporary design. The hour markers are significantly different from previous generations, appearing larger and more prominent. In this case, the markers are generally accepted to be made of a durable, high-quality white gold. This marks a clear departure from the potentially gold-filled markers of previous models.
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